.

0 (hodnocen0 x )

EB

ONLINE

1st ed.

Leiden : Sidestone Press, 2020

1 online resource (346 pages)

ISBN 9789088909733 (electronic bk.)

ISBN 9789088909719

Print version: Lennard, F. Material Approaches to Polynesian Barkcloth Leiden : Sidestone Press,c2020 ISBN 9789088909719

Intro -- Acknowledgements -- Image Credits -- Biographies -- Introduction -- Frances Lennard -- TAPA AS FABRIC: BAST AND COLOURANTS -- 1 -- The Procurement, Cultural Value and Fabric Characteristics of Polynesian Tapa Species -- Andy Mills -- Plant Profile 1: Fibre -- Plant Profile 2: Fibre, latex -- Mark Nesbitt -- Technical Variation in Historical Polynesian Tapa Manufacture -- Andy Mills -- 3 -- Breadfruit Tapa: Not Always Second Best -- Michele Austin Dennehy, Jean Chapman Mason, Adrienne L. Kaeppler -- Plant Profile 3: Fibre -- Plant Profile 4: Fibre -- Mark Nesbitt -- A New Perspective on Understanding Hawaiian Kapa Making -- Lisa Schattenburg-Raymond -- 5 -- Polynesian Tapa Colourants -- Andy Mills, Taoi Nooroa, Allan Tuara -- Plant Profile 5: Fibre -- Plant Profile 6: Fibre -- Mark Nesbitt -- 6 -- Hawaiian Dyes and Kapa Pigments: A Modern Perspective and Brief Analysis of the Historic Record -- Lisa Schattenburg-Raymond -- UNDERSTANDING TAPA IN -- TIME AND PLACE -- 7 -- Towards A Regional Chronology of Polynesian Barkcloth Manufacture -- Andy Mills -- 8 -- Living with Tapa and the Social Life of Ritual Objects -- Adrienne L. Kaeppler -- Plant Profile 7: Fibre -- Plant Profile 8: Starch (glue) -- Mark Nesbitt -- 9 -- West Polynesian Dyes and Decorations as Cultural Signatures -- Adrienne L. Kaeppler -- 10 -- ’A Classification of Tongan Ngatu’: Change and Stability in Tongan Barkcloth Forms since 1963 -- Billie Lythberg -- 11 -- White for Purity, Brown for Beautiful Like Us and Black Because it is Awesome -- Fanny Wonu Veys -- Plant Profile 9: Red dye -- Plant Profile 10: Black dye -- Mark Nesbitt -- 12 -- Barkcloth from the Islands of Wallis (’Uvea) and Futuna -- Helene Guiot -- 13 -- Barkcloth in the Māori World -- Patricia Te Arapo Wallace -- 14 -- ’Ahu Sistas: Reclaiming History, Telling our Stories -- Pauline Reynolds, Jean Clarkson.

Plant Profile 11: Yellow dye -- Turmeric Curcuma longa L. ZINGIBERACEAE -- Plant Profile 12: Yellow dye -- Mark Nesbitt -- 15 -- ’Tataki e he Lea: Guided Language’ -- Tui Emma Gillies, Sulieti Fiemea Burrows -- TAPA IN COLLECTIONS AND THE COMMUNITY -- 16 -- The Hunterian’s Polynesian Barkcloth Collection -- Andy Mills -- 17 -- From Maker to Museum: Polynesian Barkcloth at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew -- Mark Nesbitt, Brittany Curtis and Andy Mills -- Plant Profile 13: Red dye, fibre -- Plant Profile 14: Red dye -- Tou Cordia subcordata Lam. BORAGINACEAE -- Plant Profile 15: Red dye, wood -- Mark Nesbitt -- 18 -- Smithsonian Institution Barkcloth Collections -- Adrienne L. Kaeppler -- 19 -- ’Holomua ka Hana Kapa’: A Symposium on Caring for Kapa and Kapa Makers at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum, December 2017 -- Alice Christophe -- 20 -- Fiji Masi and the Auckland Museum Pacific Collection Access Project -- Fuli Pereira, Leone Samu Tui -- Plant Profile 16: Red-brown dye -- Plant Profile 17: Brown dye -- Mark Nesbitt -- 21 -- Shown to Full Advantage: Conservation and Mounting of Barkcloth for Display in the ’Shifting Patterns: Pacific Barkcloth Clothing’ Exhibition at the British Museum -- Monique Pullan -- 22 -- Conservation as Part of ’Situating Pacific Barkcloth in Time and Place’: Improving Preservation, Enhancing Access and Sharing Knowledge -- Frances Lennard, Reggie Meredith Fitiao, Sua Tupuola Uilisone Fitiao, Ruby Antonowicz-Behnan, Beth Knight -- Afterword: Polynesian Barkcloth Past, Present, Future -- Mark Nesbitt, Frances Lennard, Andy Mills -- Bibliography -- Blank Page -- Blank Page.

Barkcloth or tapa, a cloth made from the inner bark of trees, was widely used in place of woven cloth in the Pacific islands until the 19th century. A ubiquitous material, it was integral to the lives of islanders and used for clothing, furnishings and ritual artefacts. Material Approaches to Polynesian Barkcloth takes a new approach to the study of the history of this region through its barkcloth heritage, focusing on the plants themselves and surviving objects in historic collections. This object-focused approach has filled gaps in our understanding of the production and use of this material through an investigation of this unique fabric’s physical properties, transformation during manufacture and the regional history of its development in the 18th and 19th centuries. The book is the outcome of a research project which focused on three important collections of barkcloth at The Hunterian, University of Glasgow; Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew and the National Museum of Natural History, Smithsonian Institution. It also looks more widely at the value of barkcloth artefacts in museum collections for enhancing both contemporary practice and a wider appreciation of this remarkable fabric. The contributors include academics, curators, conservators and makers of barkcloth from Oceania and beyond, in an interdisciplinary study which draws together insights from object-based and textual reseach, fieldwork and tapa making, and information on the plants used to make fibres and colourants. This book will be of interest to tapa makers, museum professionals including curators and conservators; academics and students in the fields of anthropology, museum studies and conservation; museum visitors and anyone interested in finding out more about barkcloth..

001905788

express

(Au-PeEL)EBL28340008

(MiAaPQ)EBC28340008

(OCoLC)1239988309